Browsing All posts tagged under »tailcoat«

Wartime White Tie

November 11, 2013

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In honour of Remembrance Day today we take a look back at World War II and the modest sacrifices made by men on the home front to support the men on the battlefield making the greatest sacrifice of all. I had previously been aware of fabric rationing in the United States during World War II […]

Correct Details of Evening Clothes

July 4, 2013

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Here’s an interesting look back at the “correct details” of evening clothes circa 1940 courtesy of Esquire magazine.    While some of the advice is specific to that particular period  the vast majority of it remains pertinent to this day. (Click on the images for larger versions.)

White Tie at the Holy See

March 22, 2013

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It’s rare enough for White Tie to be worn to any diplomatic occasion these days but rarer still to see it worn as per Vatican protocol: in broad daylight and with a black waistcoat.  The replacement of the usual white waistcoat may well be related to the proscription of white dresses at papal audiences for any woman other […]

Vienna Balls Dress Codes

February 7, 2013

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While writing a recent post on Vienna’s famous balls I stumbled across a remarkable booklet called DRESSCODES that is devoted entirely to the dress etiquette for these affairs.  I say “remarkable” because in an age where vulgarity and slovenliness is increasingly fashionable, Vienna’s social leaders have the audacity to suggest that people hold themselves to […]

Up Close: The Hidden Tailcoat Pocket

February 4, 2013

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Like other rarefied details of bygone formal tailoring such as shirt-front trouser tabs and authentic trouser braiding, I have long wished to see an actual example of pockets hidden inside a tailcoat’s tails.  From The Black Tie Guide: “In company, as little as possible should be borne in pockets of the coat ; indeed, a full-dress coat […]

The Shawl-Collared Tailcoat

July 24, 2012

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The shawl collar is normally associated with the informal smoking jacket or semi-formal dinner jacket so it was surprising to learn that it has occasionally been featured on full-dress tailcoats dating back to the Victorian era. In 1866 The Gazette of Fashion noted that the “rolling collar” had become the most stylish type of lapel […]

All the Trimmings

June 18, 2012

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Most people are familiar with the use of lapel facings to add flair to a tuxedo but likely few are aware that the jacket’s collar and cuffs can be used for this purpose as well. The history of formalwear trimmings can be traced back to the first evening tailcoats produced during the English Regency.  They […]

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