Spotlight: The Marcella Shirt

Posted on March 19, 2014

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The Marcella shirt is a uniquely British compromise between the formality of the traditional full-dress shirt and the comfort of the American black-tie shirt.

The term evolves from Marseilles in reference to that city’s production of quilts with distinctive raised patterns beginning in the early 18th century.  In the latter part of the century, Lancashire textile mills utilized mechanical means to recreate the look as a double-faced, quilted cotton cloth and the name was modified to Marcella (usually, but not always, capitalized).  In the 19th century, the fabric was used almost exclusively for formal shirt fronts as its thickness made it naturally stiffer than plain cloth and particularly rigid when saturated with starch.

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The Marcella pattern – often referred to as birds-eye – resembles the dimples of a golf ball.

Piqué was also utilized for formal shirt fronts at this time, for similar reasons.  Although the term is used interchangeably with Marcella today, piqué is in fact differentiated by its construction and its range of geometric patterns. Thus, vintage sartorial references distinguished between the two weaves up until the late 20th century when they became synonymous.

The use of Marcella and piqué fronts for full-dress shirts began as a novel alternative to plain-fronts but by the early 1910s Sartorial Arts Journal was reporting that “the plain version has practically been replaced” by the piqué front. (The growing vogue for full-dress bow ties and cuffs to match one’s shirt bosom in the teens and ‘20s meant that  Marcella and piqué fabric also began to be used for those items.)

As the dinner suit came into its own in the 1910s and 1920s, men began to replace the traditional full-dress accessories with versions more suitable to the informal jacket.  Early attempts to modify the formal shirt by simply omitting the starch met with limited appeal.  Bolder American men experimented with pleated fronts in addition to the more conventional Marcella and plain styles, and even imported turndown collars from ordinary day wear.   London shirtmakers of the 1930s, meanwhile, created a variant of the Marcella-front shirt by using the same material for the collar and cuffs.  The trend was especially popular in turndown-collar models as these collars were typically attached to the shirt, whereas wing collars had to be purchased separately.

1936 ad in Scottish newspaper.

1936 ad for a Scottish haberdasher offering a “soft-fronted Marcella Shirt, with turn-down collar attached.”

The resulting Marcella shirts have remained a popular option in Britain to this day but never caught on in America as is evident in the following survey of models currently available on the Web. Over time, wing-collar versions with attached collars and French cuffs also appeared but  I have excluded these  from the survey as they are not proper for white tie (due to the double cuffs) and often not appealing with black bow ties (due to the wing collar).

United Kingdom

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Hunt & Holditch, £42 at Woods of Shropshire.

billngsandedmonds_co_uk_2014Billings & Edmonds, £44.

TM_Lewin_2014_2TM Lewin, £44.50.  Available in regular or slim fit.  Takes four studs.

Moss_Bros_2014Moss Bros, £45.  Tailored fit.

simpson_ruxton_birtchnells_co_uk_2014Simpson and Ruxton, £49.50 at Birtchnell’s.  Available in regular or slim fit.

clermont_direct_2014Clermont Direct, £50.  Takes five studs.

harvieandhudson_2014Harvie & Hudson, £67.  Available in regular or slim fit.

oliverbrown_2014Oliver Brown, £75.

Dalvey_2014Dalvey, £75.  Slim fit, takes five studs.

roderick_charles_Nov_2010_CURoderick Charles, £89.

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Thomas Pink, £$99.  Available in regular, slim or super slim fit.  Also available with covered  placket.

favourbrook_2014Favourbrook, £120.

Gieves_Hawkes_2014Gieves & Hawkes, £125.

Budd_2014_2Budd Shirtmakers, £165.  Takes three studs.

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Turnbull & Asser, US$395 online (approx £238).

United States

While there are some American retailers that offer formal shirts with piqué fronts, collars, and cuffs, they do not use the term Marcella and it is quite possible that the fabric may not be as thick as proper Marcella.  This is definitely the case for shirts made entirely out of a piqué weave (excluded from this survey) because it would simply not be feasible to do so with a fabric as thick as Marcella.

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Brooks Brothers “bib-front cotton tuxedo shirt” with piqué bib, collar and cuffs. $120 at Mr. Porter.

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Brooks Brothers pseudo Marcella shirt: the “bib-front spread collar formal tuxedo shirt”  has a piqué bib and collar (but not cuffs), although this is not indicated in the product description. $135.  Available in slim and regular fit.

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Kent Wang tuxedo shirt with “Marcella (piqué) front, collar and cuffs”, $145.  Takes three studs.

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Paul Stuart “piqué formal shirt”, $228.  Reviewed in a separate post.

New Zealand

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Nicholas Jermyn “Marcella Dinner Shirt”, NZ$159.  Available in regular or slim fit.

The Netherlands / International

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Netherlands-based Suit Supply’s “shirt white” has a piqué collar, bib and cuffs that are not mentioned in the product description.  It is available online for US$99 / £79 / €79 as well as in their store locations around the world.  Option of slim or regular fit.