Part six of a series featuring newly discovered first-hand accounts of the tuxedo’s earliest appearances.
As is no doubt obvious by this point, there were many names for the new tailcoat substitute. Here’s a summary of those names along with their origin dates as per my latest research:
- the first term used in the US was “dress sack”, premiering in 1885 (although the coat it initially applied to is not necessarily what is considered the conventional dinner jacket)
- “tailless dress coat” was another early American term, first appearing in 1886; it was often used interchangeably with other names
- the first known term used in England was “dinner jacket” premiering in 1887
- “dress lounge” debuted in England in 1888
- “Cowes coat” was another English term that first appeared in 1888 although this is according to US sources as I did not find it in actual British periodicals
- 1888 was also the year that “Tuxedo” first appeared in the US (and was capitalized until the 1930s)
This updated etymology requires not only a revision of The Black Tie Guide but also of its related source, the authoritative Unabridged Oxford English Dictionary. Granted, having found a printed occurrence of “tuxedo” dated one year earlier than the OED’s stated debut is not particularly earth shattering. However, the appearance of “dinner jacket” five years prior to the OED’s 1891 claim is indeed significant, if only to formalwear purists previously irked that the colloquial American nickname apparently preceded the genteel British moniker.
Next installment: wrapping up the series with miscellaneous notions and sundries